NEW ZEALAND SCENERY BY

Welcome to the Lab Notebook. 

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Okay, this is a big one. Wiring. The scary electrical stuff that our customers state as the most daunting part of a self-build vans.  Most people are comfortable with a hand saw, a screwdriver, a sanding block, various power tools, and are happy to take a run a building something. However, we find playing with electricity strikes fear into most self builds. What do we need? What is the difference between 12 and 230V? AC vs DC? Do I need both? Do I need a hook-up? Where do I start? Battery Sizing? So, we thought we would run over some concepts with you guys over a few Lab Notebook entries.

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1. Overview of van wiring: What do I need? What can I do myself? How do I start?

2. Wiring Loom Fundamentals: Electrical safety, component sizing and install tips.

3.  Leisure battery information, sizing, Deep Cycle vs Car Battery.

4.  12V Vs 230V? AC vs. DC? Site hook-up. Inverters and inverter sizing

5.   Leisure Battery Charging; VSR vs. Solar? 

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For today, we’ll give you an overview of our typical campervan wiring. The basic setup and things to consider.

Components of the VanLab Wiring Loom

So, what do you need? Well, in the typical VanLab sized van (Hiace, NV350, Elgrand, Alphard, L300, Vanette, G10, Bongo, Nissan Caravan etc.), most people are asking for the following on their road trip.

·        Lighting

We suggest LED strip lights. The power draw is tiny and the lighting is mighty! Our VanLab campervan wiring kits run 3 x 5 Watt LED strip lights, and they’re plenty bright enough. Obviously, it’s a campervan, so points for gratuitous fairy lights too! 

·       Fridge power

The fridge is often the biggest draw. You need to think carefully about the fridge size and type. The two main types are thermoelectric coolers (less efficient but cheaper) and refrigeration systems (more efficient but more expensive). How and when you will use your fridge, will be your biggest concern when building your electrical system. Thermal inertia also plays a big part in fridge performance, as in, a full fridge takes a while to cool, but stays cold. An empty fridge heats up and cools down much quicker. 

·        Phone/tablet/camera/speaker charging

USB chargers everywhere! We run 2 x double USB chargers, one for each side of the bed. These are super useful because they provide 24/7 charging from the leisure battery. We have had a few people charging off the cigarette lighter in the van, but you can only charge your phone while the ignition is on. This is a recipe for a flat van battery in the morning…. We don’t recommend this. Always charge from your leisure battery! 

·       Battery monitoring

Battery monitoring is super important and often overlooked. We run a voltmeter for the start battery and the leisure battery. This lets you keep an eye on how much power you are using by monitoring the battery voltage. It helps you decide when to back off the power and when to start charging your leisure battery. Once you learn to read them, they are an incredibly useful tool. As an overview, lets not run your leisure battery below 10.8V and when its charging you should see 13-14V. 

·        Laptop charging (from inverter)

Some fancy laptops run on USB, however, if you’re like me, you need a 3 pin 230V plug in. In this case, we need an inverter. Inverters take a 12V Direct Current (DC) input, and output a 230V Alternating Current (AC), like the plug in your house. From here, you can plug in normal household appliances. Inverters are rated to a certain power (in Watts). You just need to match the amount of power you want to draw with the inverter you install. For example, the laptop this article is written on draws 65W (see below), so you could happily run 4 of these laptops (4*65 = 260W) from the 350W inverter VanLab offers. You just need to check the items you want to run, note; anything to do with heat generation is super power hungry. A typical kettle would be over 2,000W.  

So, can I do this electrical work myself? In the case above, we are running everything from a 12V DC source, straight off a leisure battery. The great thing about 12V, is you can build it yourself. You do not need an electrician to sign off any 12V work. However, this does not excuse you from poor work. 12V can still give you a shock and be a fire risk if done badly. If concerned at all, please check it over with an Auto Sparky before going live.

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Now, how do I start? We have 2 options here. Self-build, or buy a kit. In the next instalment, we’ll show you some really important fundamentals for the self build options; tools, wire sizing, electrical safety etc.

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VanLab Pre-Built Loom Kits

However, to make things a little easier, we have designed and sell a great little 12V wiring loom kit. It provides all the features above and leaves you just to connect up a few final parts following our instructions. You can see an overview here: https://youtu.be/3gv7S8KEi7Y 

 

You can order your own 12V wiring loom kit at our website; https://vanlab.co.nz/campervankit 

Check back for the next instalment, where we’ll dive into the fundamentals of 12V looms! 

       

       

The Wiring Locker of the Nissan NV200